- \n
- Noise-Free Recording Environment<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- A Pop Filter<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- A Microphone: XLR\/USB\/built-in<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Cables: XLR\/USB<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Microphone Stand<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- A Computer: Mac\/PC<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Recording Software<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Optional<\/strong>
- An Audio Interface<\/strong><\/li>
- A Clean Power Source<\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n
- \n
- Reading Technology: iPad\/Tablet<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Wireless Keyboard\/Mouse<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
That already seems like an intimidating list. I’m here to help! I am also not going to hold back, there really is a lot of information to know about each piece of equipment\/software. There are wonderful resources out there, but you might want to bookmark this one–it’s going to have absolutely everything you need to get started. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
As a fun note, if you didn’t have any of the above and you decided to purchase everything, you could spend easily spend over $1000 on all the equipment. Don’t worry, I’ll give you some options if you want to make this cheaper.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n
Does your Voice Audio get louder and softer in your recording? Consider using a compressor! Learn more about compression in our guide, here<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n
Noise-Free Environment: Finding Or Creating<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
One of the difficulties around recording any type of audio is that you only want to capture the audio of the thing you’re trying to record. In other words, you don’t want to record the dog barking, the cars driving, or the AC running in the background, you only want to record the voice!<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
The key is to record in an environment that deadens the sound–that means eliminates echos or external noise from seeping into the recording.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
This isn’t true for all types of recording, sometimes you want <\/strong>to record some of those echos of the room, but for recording talking <\/strong>(audiobooks in particular), the generally preferred style right now is to have the sound as “dead” as possible, meaning no background noise whatsoever.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
You may think that you need a recording studio for this to work. This is partially true, but it doesn’t necessarily have to look like how you are imagining. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Since soundproofing is a huge topic in itself–I’ll just cover some basic options, here. Let’s go from most expensive to cheapest<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Building Your Own Recording Studio<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
If you are serious about recording voice then you need a dedicated room. In a recording studio, every aspect of the room is soundproofed–that means thick (i.e. heavy) doors that form strong seals, noiseless air conditioning treatments, soundproofing your outlets, foam walls, air gaps, etc. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
For example, if you wanted to see what kind of modifications you can make to a room to truly make it soundproof, check out a soundproofing resource reseller here<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This is by far the most expensive option. Total soundproofing is an extensive project that shouldn’t be entered into lightly. If you want to record one or two books or projects, this is not going to be worth it. It’d be far more economical to rent out an existing recording studio.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
I want to emphasize, this is probably not the correct solution for you. Most people can get by with soundproofing treatment, and not a total soundproof makeover<\/strong>. See the treatment section, below.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n
Renting An Existing Recording Studio<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
If you want a room that already has the sound treatment and the equipment you want (that’s right, you don’t have to buy a microphone or a computer, even), then you can rent your own recording studio. Studiotime <\/a>is a company that rents out recording studios (often you can pay extra if you’d like a sound engineer to help out with the process). <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The price is often by the hour, so if you have a ~500 page book at around 80,000 words, that will make somewhere around a 10 hour audiobook. You can plan on it taking twice as long to record as it does to just listen to the finished product, so you will need around 20 hours of studio time. More if you have never done it before.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
So, at a studio price of $40 an hour, that means you’ll spend around $800 to record one 10 hour book. That doesn’t include the cost of editing, which is an extensive and time-consuming process. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
However, if you have only one or two books that you want to record, then it’s still cheaper than to professionally soundproof your own room. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
DIY Sound Treatment<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Here’s the deal, for the most part, people don’t expect perfection in everything. It’s okay if there’s a slight bit of noise–many times people download audiobooks without their full fidelity. Sometimes people have the privilege of downloading audiobook in perfect HD quality, but many times the recording is old, or it’s been compressed for faster downloading, etc. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
In short, you can often get by with some sound treatment rather than a full soundproofed room.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
Let’s talk about some options:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Acoustic panels<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n
Acoustic panels won’t prevent sound from entering into your makeshift studio, but what they will do is help prevent your room from having as much echo (called reverb in the biz). <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Here are professional grade acoustic panels from gikacoustics.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n
One very economical DIY way to add some sound absorption is to make your own acoustic panels:<\/p>\n\n\n
<\/div>How to Make High Performance Sound Absorption Panels for $5<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>![\"How](\"https:\/\/soundadventurer.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/wp-youtube-lyte\/lyteCache.php?origThumbUrl=https%3A%2F%2Fi.ytimg.com%2Fvi%2FpABvTWSxOes%2F0.jpg\")
![\"DO](\"https:\/\/soundadventurer.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/wp-youtube-lyte\/lyteCache.php?origThumbUrl=https%3A%2F%2Fi.ytimg.com%2Fvi%2FtFRhQG-I5L0%2F0.jpg\")
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/soundadventurer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/jumpstory-download20200320-021022-1024x683.jpg\")
<\/picture>The Shure SM58 with a built-in pop filter. This is likely not going to be enough!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/soundadventurer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/pop-filter-683x1024.jpg\")
<\/picture>This pop-filter will help reduce splosives and is (in my mind) mandatory for recording an audiobook or other lengthy talking audio.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n Fortunately, these aren’t overly expensive. Here’s one that’s not a bad price from Shure<\/a> (on Amazon) (a big name in the recording industry). There are plenty of cheaper ones… I’m sure the one I got is from a company that doesn’t exist anymore—but here<\/a> is one that is popular currently (also Amazon)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alternatives To a Pop-Filter<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
No beans about it, you need something to prevent those plosives–but you may not have to go buy a pop filter. Your microphone may have come with a fluffy cover, which could work for your purposes–you’ll have to demo it yourself, though to find if it’s acceptable in the recording. It might not be a bad idea to ask someone else’s opinion on a demo recording before going too far with it, though. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you’d like to know all the different types of windscreen styles for microphones, check out my article here<\/a> (and you’ll finally learn what a “dead cat” is) <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Microphone: Capturing Your Voice<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
The microphone is the heart and soul of the recording process. Admittedly it needs other components to get this to work, but this is assuredly a critical component. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Now, there are hundreds of different types of microphones. Not only are there different brand names with varying levels of quality, but there are even different microphone designs<\/strong> that work fundamentally differently. Some mics are good for some purposes, and some are better for others.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Now, if you’re like most people, you don’t want to become an audio engineer, you just want to record an audiobook or other project! <\/p>\n\n\n\n
That’s fine–I’ll try and keep things brief, but there are some important terminologies that are super important to know and understand. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Dynamic vs. Condenser: Which One is Better?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
A dynamic mic is a low-power mic, and it’s designed to be positioned directly in your face. For example, you don’t want to be more than 6 inches (perhaps even closer) from the SM-58 (here <\/a>on Amazon) mic (an extremely versatile and popular mic from Shure). <\/p>\n\n\n\n
A condenser mic is a more sensitive microphone that requires phantom power<\/strong> (can be provided through USB or through an audio interface) that is better-suited to picking up an environment (on stage recordings sometimes have condenser mics that are pointed at the stage just to add richness to the recording). <\/p>\n\n\n\n
From my own personal experience, I would use a condenser mic<\/strong> for recording an audiobook or a long voice track. Condenser microphones are less finicky on the exact distance you are to the mic, while a dynamic mic is very particular about being the perfect distance. Since you’re going to be recording talking for a long, long time, it’s best, in my opinion, to find a mic that is comfortable to speak in.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Furthermore, in my experience, it’s easier to get the sound levels you want. Often you have the problem with condenser mics of being too loud, but it’s easier to go quieter–and this also helps with noise problems. You are essentially drowning out any background noise with your own voice. I’ve experienced with dynamic mics that despite my best effort, recording something quiet or nuanced is more difficult without noise. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
TL;DR —Go with a condenser mic for recording an audiobook or other long talking project<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
XLR vs. USB: Which One Is Better?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
The audio engineer world and the normal person world hasn’t fully merged yet. There are still thousands of options, many requiring more gear than you might be planning for. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
I’ll be quick in summarizing:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
XLR microphones = more gear, with greater flexibility<\/strong> (perhaps cheaper microphone)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
USB microphones<\/strong> = less gear, less flexibility, potentially more expensive because of more built-in components.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
I mentioned how it might be cheaper to get an XLR microphone–while that may be true, you will lose all that money saved by all the additional gear you have to purchase (audio interface and cables). Furthermore, there are some very affordable USB microphones that aren’t “studio quality” but do fine for most people. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
USB Microphones<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
A USB microphone has a preamp (amplifies the signal coming from the microphone) built-in<\/strong> to the microphone. This preamp is often powered via the USB connection to a computer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
This simplifies your life quite a bit<\/strong>. You don’t need to get a separate device for recording with a USB microphone. Most likely, it will even come with the cables you need.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you are just getting started and don’t want to buy a ton of equipment, a USB mic is the way to go. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
I’ll reiterate: If you only want to record a couple books or podcast, you should get a USB microphone<\/span> instead of an XLR microphone. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
There are, frankly, not as many options as other connection types (I’m looking at you, XLR!), but more and more microphones are releasing with USB capability. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
What if you have a new Macbook Pro? <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n
It’s true, that most USB microphones go to the larger square USB (called USB-A) than the smaller USB-C on certain Macbook Pros. If this is your scenario, you can easily convert from USB-A to USB-C with an adapter from Apple like this one<\/a> (Amazon). This will allow you to connect any USB-A microphone to your Macbook. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Best USB Microphone For Making Your Own Audiobooks<\/h4>\n\n\n\n
I’ll tell you right now, it’s impossible for me to tell you which is the best because there are so many variables when it comes to recording. The most important being the recording environment, but there are dozens of other factors. You might have a mic that doesn’t pick up your particular furnace rumble and one that seems to only <\/strong>pick up your furnace rumble and nothing else. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
However, I can still simplify your life and show you an excellent choice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The Blue Yeti <\/a> (Amazon) is one of the most popular USB microphones, and after studying the features and listening to the sound quality, it’s for good reason! It’s a solid microphone that’s really affordable for the level of quality–not only that, it’s versatile, as it has settings to support conversation in a conference room with many people, as well as the cardioid recording pattern, which just means it is ideal for recording a single subject (like your reader!)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It’s not the cheapest microphone out there, but hear me out–audiobooks and even podcasts have a certain expectation of quality. The Blue Yeti has good quality for its price and features, and is versatile and comfortable enough for recording an audiobook. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
What do I mean by comfortable? Well, since it’s a condenser mic and has enough power in its electronics, you don’t have to put your face 2 inches away from the microphone for it to capture a good sound. You can put the mic at a comfortable speaking distance, and that is really important for long recording sessions. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
It comes with all the electronics you need to get started. This means you don’t need an audio interface or XLR cables–you just plug it into your USB port on your computer. It even supports Chromebook (and your smartphone), <\/strong>which is a big plus if you don’t have another type of computer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you are just getting started and you want to get recording an audiobook or start podcasting and you want decent sound without all the fuss, then go with the Blue Yeti.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
Now, why even think about other microphones? The quality of a Blue Yeti is good–but it’s not the highest quality–there are definitely other microphones that will sound cleaner and have less noise (that hiss that you can hear if you turn a recording up real loud). Does it matter? It depends–for a lot of projects, the highest quality isn’t necessary–but if you’re wanting to get into professional level recordings, you may need to think about getting an XLR microphone. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
XLR Microphones<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
XLR refers to the connection type of the microphone. It’s a 3 pronged connection that has been around for decades.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/soundadventurer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/XLR-Cable-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/picture>An example of an XLR cable. The right end (the female port) plugs into the microphone, while the left end plugs into the audio interface\/mixer<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n XLR microphones are specialized for audio equipment–you won’t find USB mics in most professional studios–instead you will find microphones connected with XLR. The reason for this is all the equipment that audio engineers use to modify and capture the sound is standardized to use XLR. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you want the highest quality microphones, you should look for microphones with XLR connections. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you get an XLR microphone, you will need a way to connect it to your computer–for starters the easiest way to do this is with an audio interface, discussed below. <\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
Best XLR Microphone For Making Your Own Audiobooks<\/h4>\n\n\n\n
Again, best is subjective, and the premium XLR microphones can be well over a $1000–however, there are some great microphones for under $500. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
I thought the Rode NT1-A <\/a><\/strong>(Sweetwater Sound) sounded the most impressive, but the MXL 990<\/a> <\/strong>also sounded really good (Amazon) and is quite a bit less expensive. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Honestly, when you embark on a journey and are just getting your equipment, I am always of the opinion to not get the best of the best, but let your talent and skill grow with your gear. The MXL 990 is a great option because it is so affordable and sounds really nice. I have a MXL v88 and I’ve been very satisfied with the build quality, so I can easily recommend the 990 after listening to some comparisons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
I watched and listened to this comparison here between these two heavy hitters if you want to listen to the sound quality yourself to see what you think:<\/p>\n\n\n
<\/div>MXL990 vs Rode NT1 a<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>![\"MXL990](\"https:\/\/soundadventurer.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/wp-youtube-lyte\/lyteCache.php?origThumbUrl=https%3A%2F%2Fi.ytimg.com%2Fvi%2FqjbhmygRhq0%2F0.jpg\")
![\"How](\"https:\/\/soundadventurer.com\/wp-content\/plugins\/wp-youtube-lyte\/lyteCache.php?origThumbUrl=https%3A%2F%2Fi.ytimg.com%2Fvi%2FYleB11Xipmo%2F0.jpg\")
- Wireless Keyboard\/Mouse<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- A Clean Power Source<\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n
- A Pop Filter<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n